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Josie Natori

Not everything about the Japanese culture gets lost in translation. Consider, for instance, natori, the Japanese word for “highest form of art.” In the 30 years since Josie Cruz Natori founded the lingerie company that bears her name she’s been reaching for natori. She approaches everything she does–whether it’s designing the many lingerie, loungewear, sleepwear, and other collections of The Natori Company or perfecting her skills as a concert pianist–as if it were a work of art. “Natori is my husband’s name, but it’s very much my philosophy,” says the CEO and founder of the company. “I’m always trying to find the perfect note.”

Not surprising, given her upbringing. The former Josefina Almeda Cruz was raised in a close-knit Filipino family, surrounded by strong role models who instilled in her the importance of making her own way. “I’m lucky to come from a matriarchal society in which women are encouraged to be entrepreneurs,” says Natori, the oldest of six children. “My grandmother always said, ‘Don’t put yourself in a position where you have to depend on anyone.’ So there was never a question that I would go into business.”

Indeed, even though Natori showed a natural affinity for the piano at an early age, performing a solo concert with the Manila Philharmonic Orchestra at age 9, she knew she was better suited to life not as an artist but as a businessperson. In 1964, at 17, she left Manila for New York, where she studied economics at Manhattanville College. Following graduation, she quickly ascended the corporate ladder, eventually landing at Merrill Lynch as the first female vice president of investment banking. By 1976, the rising Wall Street star had married Ken Natori, then managing director at Smith Barney, and given birth to her son, Kenneth, Jr. But Natori was restless. “The novelty of investment banking had begun to wear off,” she says. “I just wasn't challenged anymore. I knew there must be something else.”

Natori considered a number of entrepreneurial ventures–selling baskets and furniture imported from the Philippines, running a car wash, even opening a McDonald’s franchise– before she discovered exactly what that something else should be. After an old friend sent her some hand-embroidered blouses from the Philippines, she showed them to a buyer at Bloomingdale’s, who liked the way they echoed the look of Yves St. Laurent’s peasant blouses, popular at the time. At the buyer’s suggestion, Natori lengthened them and turned them into nightshirts. They were such a hit that within weeks, Natori had set up shop in her living room; within a few years, she’d left Merrill Lynch and was working out of an 11,000-square-foot loft in midtown Manhattan.

“At the time, lingerie was either lewd or frumpy,” says Natori, whose sophisticated designs fill the all-but-forgotten niche in between. Even as her collection has grown to include four distinctive lines of lingerie (Josie Natori, Natori, Josie, and Cruz), her signature detailing, embroidery, vibrant colors, and applique work continue to reflect her native Philippines, whether it is in the form of a robe, caftan, chemise, nightgown, or pajama. And that nod to her homeland continues to be a key element of her definition of success. “I love my work, but success in fashion is not enough,” explains Natori, who was honored for her achievements in 2007 with the Order of Lakandula Award, the Philippines' highest civilian honor. She received the award from Philippine President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. “I want to be able to give something back, to make a difference in people’s lives. Only then will I feel as if I’ve accomplished something.”

To that end, she established a factory in the Philippines to handle 50 percent of Natori Company’s production. She also sits on the board of trustees of the Asian Cultural Council; the board of directors of the Orchestra of St Luke’s; and the boards of the Philippine American Foundation and Women In Need Organization. She is also a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Committee of 200 and the Chairperson of The Women’s Forum for the Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines.

Now, as she looks ahead, the goal is to make time for her own passions, including her first love, the piano (for her 50th birthday, Natori performed at Carnegie Hall with The Orchestra of St. Luke’s) while she fulfills her vision for the company. What began with lingerie has clearly evolved into a broader focus on lifestyle with the addition of Natori Home, and the company's Fall 2008 launch of Natorious, the company's first foray into ready-to-wear. “Natori is a total concept, a way of life,” she says. “I just happened to start at the back door, with the lingerie. Now, as we expand into the home, we’ve completed that sensibility.” And a dream of reaching natori.